Indigenous-owned California wineries broaden the meaning of terroir

For several Indigenous-owned California wine businesses, a vineyard’s sense of place includes more than growing conditions. Decanter reports that producers connect their work to Indigenous relationships with the land, cultural knowledge and histories often missing from accounts of California wine.

Bellacana Vineyards, owned by the Dry Creek Rancheria Band of Pomo Indians, has 138 acres planted in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley. Tribal member and board member Lisa Lellis describes the property as part of a longer relationship with the area, which includes wildlife, a salmon run, native plants and oak trees. The vineyard’s name combines an Italian word for beautiful with a Southern Pomo word for river.

The Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation’s Sékah Hills operation grows grapes alongside crops including almonds, tomatoes and olives, as well as raising cattle. The Nation has 29 acres of grapes but does not make wine, according to Decanter. The feature also profiles Camins 2 Dreams, owned by Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians member Tara Gomez and Mireia Taribó. The couple makes minimal-intervention wines using fruit from organic, biodynamic and regenerative vineyards in San Benito and Santa Barbara counties.

Other examples show how cultural connections shape winery communication and hospitality. Decanter reports that Native Hands Wines uses English and Native names for its wines, while Cellar 13 owner Darin Winton incorporates Cherokee names and artwork by his uncle on labels. At Camins 2 Dreams, Gomez shares language and stories connected to her Chumash culture with visitors.

The feature also discusses California’s mission-era wine history and the role of Indigenous people in planting and tending vines. Its treatment of the mission system as involving coercion and exploitation requires human editorial review before publication.